The Breslin

A couple weeks ago I had a great outing with my sisters (and one of our honorary sisters) to The Breslin at the Ace Hotel, located at 16 West 29 Street in New York. Dinner was amazing and the company excellent.

Our meat-laden meal began with a terrine board: guinea hen with morels, rabbit and prune, rustic pork with pistachios, head cheese, liverwurst. All served with pickles, piccalilli and mustard. This platter was decadent enough in itself, but it was only the beginning.

 Terrine Board

We also split a scotch egg and scrumpets with mint vinegar. Having no idea what a scrumpet is, I was pleased to discover it is lamb breaded and fried. Kind of a like a lamb fishstick. It's a bit heavy, but sharing is a nice way to get a taste without going overboard.

Scrumpet with a vegetable thing in the background

Extreme Close Up Scrumpet & Scotch Egg

We also shared a lamb burger, which was awesome. I had it once before at The Breslin and it's definitely a good deal. As you can see, the meat is cooked very rare, allowing the taste of the lamb to really come through. The feta cheese makes it a little too salty for me, so this time around I tried some bites without the feta and found it more pleasing.

Lammmb Burger

Razor clams also appeared during the meal (and disappeared, quickly). I'd never tried razor clams before and I really enjoyed them. They are a bit heartier than regular clams, and the good chefs at The Breslin cooked them perfectly.

 Razor Clams, with a Scotch Egg peeking out in the distance

To round out the meal we got a roasted beet salad and broccoli. Because, vegetables are a thing that people should eat. But also there was meat in the vegetable dishes as well. You can never escape the meat.

 Tasty Vegetables

If you get a chance, treat yourself to some awesome food at The Breslin! I also recommend retiring to the lobby of the Ace Hotel for a drink to end your delicious meal.

Pai Men Miyake

I don't even think I need to explain what's going on here at Pai Men Miyake, located at 188 State Street in Portland, Maine--the photos really say it all. 

Featured here are two must haves while dining at Pai Men Miyake--pork buns and ramen. The pork buns come with braised pork belly with gouchujang mayo and pepper relish nestled between two perfect pillowey buns. It is like a fluffy dough cloud with pork belly inside--what could be better? 

All the ramen is plentiful with pork belly as well. I believe what we're looking at here is the Tonkotsu-Shoyu Ramen (pork broth with soy egg, ginger root, mushrooms, scallion, pork belly, and nori) and the Miso Ramen (pork, chicken, and fish broth topped with pork belly, soy-marinated egg, scallion, and nori).

For some reason I associate eating Japanese ramen on rainy days. Escaping into Pai Men Miyake from a rainy Portland afternoon and slurping up noodles and pork broth sounds pretty ideal right now. If you find yourself in Portland craving authentic ramen or just need a pork bun fix, this is a great place to satisfy your desire. Enjoy!

Flatbread Company

While I haven’t been to Portland, Maine, since August (insert sad emoticon here) I still have some food posts from my last trip that never went up—one of them being about the tasty pizzas at Flatbread Company, located right on the water at 72 Commercial Street.   

I like Flatbread. It’s got a sweet vibe to it. The restaurant feels nice and spacious and you can watch your pizza being made and tossed into a blazing open wood stove. Inside is welcoming and warm, but when it’s nice out I recommend sitting outside by the water.  I'm biased toward a New York slice, but I've found life is much better when you just open yourself up to different variations on a good idea. My favorite pizza so far at Flatbread is the Homemade Sausage. I love the taste of the sausage—it’s nitrate free with a pleasant combination of subtle sweet maple and a bit of a bite from the fennel. The pizza also comes with organic sulfate-free sundried tomatoes, caramelized organic onions, organic mushrooms, whole milk mozzarella, and Parmesan cheese with organic bread dough and homemade organic garlic oil and herbs.  

Everyday they offer a vegetable and a meat special pizza, and they will also let you order a pizza half-and-half so you can try both without having to order too much food. On one visit we ordered half Coevolution and half of the meat special for the day. Coevolution is composed of imported Kalamata olives (guaranteed to make a good pizza even better), fresh organic rosemary, organic red onions, Sunset Acres goat cheese, fire-roasted sweet red peppers, and whole milk mozzarella on organic bread dough with homemade organic garlic olive oil and herbs. The meat special came with tiny Maine shrimps and a Thai peanut sauce. It had a little bit of heat to it and was also topped with peppers and snow peas. A success all around.  

A crisp Maine Root root beer is a nice accompaniment to the pizza, especially on a hot summer day. They also have nice options for beer and wine at the bar inside.  

One of the interesting aspects of Flatbread is that their menus are made from children’s drawings, some of which are highly entertaining. I am a seaweed! I am a cloud! I am a strawberry! I am an orphan?  

Bibimbap!

I tried this bibimbap at Village Yokocho while out in New York City with some friends. The rice in the bottom of the sizzling bowl got nice and crispy and that beautiful egg yolk spread lusciously throughout the dish. Amping the spice level up with lots of hot chili sauce we devoured two these between five people in no time. SO GOOD.

Plus bibimbap is the most fun food name to say out loud. Trust me, it's been proven.

Hazelnut Kitchen

A couple of weeks ago I was driving through Trumansburg on my way back to Ithaca from Palmyra (I had been kidnapped for a Mormon adventure at the Hill Cumorah Pageant), and we passed by a restaurant that caught my eye. “Hazelnut Kitchen,” I said. “Well, that sounds like a lovely place to have dinner.” It turns out my instincts were right.

When I got home I checked out their menu online. Everything sounded phenomenal. One problem—they were going to be closed for the next couple of weeks. Luckily they reopened the last weekend I would be in Ithaca. Perfect. I filled in my friend (and one of my favorite dining companions) Lara on my plan to enjoy a meal at Hazelnut Kitchen before I departed and she was all about it.

So for my last night of a wonderful six weeks in Ithaca, we headed over to Trumansburg for one last fantastic meal together. Since I was in a celebratory mood (and feeling a mix of emotions ranging from sadness at saying farewells to joy and appreciation for new friendships forged and old ones strengthened to anticipation for what’s to come next) I opted for a sparkling white wine. I don’t have the name of the wine, but the menu described it as “dry, crisp, toasty.” Tall elegant glass flutes filled with bubbles just brings a smile to one’s face. We cheersed to the Summer of Freedom (which will hopefully transition smoothly into a Life of Freedom) and sipped our chilled white wine that bursted with effervescence.

Selecting items from the menu proved difficult as everything sounded amazing. After a detailed reading of and discussion regarding nearly every dish on the menu we decided on one first course item and two second course entrees. Not wanting to break from our modus operandi, we planned on sharing everything.

Our first course consisted of organic spicy greens, fresh figs, jambon de bayonne, balsamic vinaigrette, and Lively Run blue cheese. The plate was lined with ultra-thin slices of glistening jambon, its shades ranging from deep magenta to soft sunset pink to lines of soft white fat. Atop the jambon was a bouquet of spicy greens coated lightly in a balsamic vinaigrette that balanced a delicate line of acidity, oil, and spice. The slice of Lively Run goat cheese draped across the greens had lovely blue-green veins of mold laced throughout the hard, off-white cheese. (Lively Run is a local goat farm in the Finger Lakes area that produces goat milk and goat milk cheese.) Along the side of the plate were figs sliced in half—their intoxicating sweetness shining through with every taste. While each component displayed its own distinctive characteristics and delight, the best bite was one that included a little bit of each fine ingredient, bringing together a heavenly blend of flavors.

For one the entrees we ordered one of the specials, which consisted of sautéed shrimp and steamed mussels, with chorizo sausage, tomatoes, basil, sweet corn, garlic, and roasted red peppers. This aromatic dish arrived at the table in a large white bowl—the array of mussels nestled in a shallow layer of light-brown broth. The combined scent of spices, sausage, and basil wafted out over the table, inciting desire and anticipation for the first bite.

We also shared the star anise dusted duck breast with red cherry reduction, aromatic jasmine rice, and sautéed pac choi. We were informed by our server that this dish was the chef’s specialty and once I took the first bite it was apparent why. The chef’s recommendation is to order the duck medium rare, but when the dishes first arrived there was a little mix up. Even though my digital camera is out of commission right now, I decided to try and use my disposable camera to capture the two beautiful entrees. As I got the camera ready I noticed the chef moving anxiously nearby. “I’m sorry,” he approached us, “but did you order the duck medium rare?”

“Yes, we did,” I said. As I looked down I noticed that the duck breast appeared dark mahogany brown through the center—not exactly medium rare.

“Well, there was a mix up. Another table ordered the exact same dishes except they got the duck medium well. So I’m just going to bring these over to the other table and get yours in just a minute.”

I was glad that the chef caught the mistake before we started eating—the medium-well duck looked pretty sad. When the medium-rare duck did arrive it was a thing of beauty. The flesh of the duck radiated from a ruby red sensuous center outward towards the artfully and gently cooked periphery that retained the duck’s moisture and tenderness. The skin was crisped and encrusted with a light dusting of star anise that enhanced the tender fatty flavor of the duck with subtle sweetness and a tickle of licorice. The red cherry reduction formed a lovely sweet-yet-sour burgundy bed that pooled around the cloud of fluffy jasmine rice. I wasn’t sure what to expect of “pac choi,” but when it arrived it appeared to be baby bok choy, so perhaps it is just another spelling. The little bundles of crunchy almost translucent white stems with deep green tender leaves added an enjoyable texture and hadn’t been overworked in the cooking process. They seemed have been either simply braised or steamed and the flavor of the bok choy was allowed to speak for itself (taste for itself?).

My disposable camera did capture an image of the entrees. It’s a pretty pathetic photograph of such amazing food, but it’s all we’ve got for this meal!

A dinner at Hazelnut Kitchen was well worth the short drive from Ithaca. If you are in the Finger Lakes region then this restaurant that blends the warm comfort of home with fresh, elegant culinary delights is a must try. Reservations are recommended and the menu changes at least every month.

Apollo Chinese Restaurant

Every once in a while I just get a craving for simple, delicious pork fried rice. Basic greasy fried rice from your standard Chinese place—nothing special, just good comfort food.

I recently had this craving for two months. I don’t know why I didn’t do anything about it—the craving would come, I would consider getting Chinese food, and then I would do something else. On one recent hot and humid afternoon I decided to do something about it. I think that the weather really put me over the edge. The oppressive heat was so reminiscent of China that I just couldn’t get it out of my mind. I kept thinking about how I used to walk down the street from my apartment and visit this little hole-in-the-wall restaurant on the corner with a man spooning out fried rice into buckets for just a few measly cents in U.S. currency. I would go pick up a bucket of egg or beef fried rice and then savor the salty MSG, filling rice, and chili heat. Granted, the fried rice I would buy on the corner in Chengdu was quite different than the American-Chinese food of my craving, but somewhere in my mind fried rice and hot weather are knit together.

Being unsure where to get some good fried rice in the Collegetown area of Ithaca, NY, I checked out my friend Celeste’s blog 90 Restaurants, 90 Days, a site on which she documents her culinary experiences in Ithaca before leaving the area to pursue other ventures. This blog became a go-to for me during my time in Ithaca. After checking out Celeste’s reviews of a few Asian restaurants I honed in on Apollo Chinese Restaurant, and was immediately convinced that it was the best option. It sounded like the best cure for my craving and they were right around the corner from me.

One of the most satisfying parts of the experience was that when I walked into Apollo the scent immediately took me back to the smell of food in China. It’s so interesting how a particular scent can transport you through space and time, and I definitely experienced that on my recent venture to Apollo. The pork fried rice was exactly what I was craving. My ideal pork fried rice consists of greasy, salty rice laden with hunks of bright red roast pork, bits of scrambled egg, onions, carrots, and peas. I like the rice to be brown from a bit of soy sauce and slightly crispy and clumped together—perfect for scooping up glorious mouthfuls with chopsticks. This was exactly what Apollo delivered.

When I checked out the menu and was tempted to order a few dishes, but it was really just the pork fried rice I was interested in. Even though I was getting a very basic dish I got the feeling (and can see evidence of it in Celeste’s review) that they do “real” Chinese food right. I was more than satisfied and had my craving filled by the fried rice, but if I were to return again I’d probably want to try out their steamed pork buns, one of their various noodle soups, Peking duck, or double sautéed pork (I’m guessing this is the same as twice cooked pork, one of my favorite dishes). Alas, I’m far departed from Ithaca now, but if you’re in the area and looking for a fried-rice fix then it’s the right place to be.

Walter's

Waaalllt! That’s my baaaarrrr! Sorry, you know I can’t resist a LOST reference. When I walked up to Walter’s, and hopefully to the amusement of my companions, I couldn’t help but echo Michael’s overused yelling for his son. Located at 2 Portland Square, Walter’s is a classy joint with its sleek interior, seasonal menu, and excellent bar.

For my cocktail I ordered a Wild French Ginger—Citadelle French gin, domaine de canton French ginger liquer, and candied ginger. I always applaud bars when they are able to make delicious cocktails without overloaded them with cloying syrup. The Wild French Ginger was thankfully not overly sweet and it had a nice kick from the ginger.

Jonah Crab Claws were the first appetizer we sampled. The claws were ice chilled, which contributed to their distinctive texture—the flesh was smooth and cold and had a sweet, oceany flavor. They were served with a South Beach dipping sauce.

Next up was Greek lamb sliders. These little beauties were crafted with Greek sausage, Camembert, and a spicy Cara Cara orange gelee on flaky rosemary biscuits. These were the sliders that inspired us to have our own slider throwdown. Cara Cara apparently is a type of red Navel orange—it made a delicious sweet and spicy gelee topping for the slider that combined smoothly with the rich and buttery Camembert. The sausage was moist and flavorful and paired nicely with the biscuits.

 

Last on our order was oxtail spring rolls, which were prepared with roasted corn, poblano peppers, and smoked mozzarella, with a spicy avocado crema and tamarind yuzu ponzu dipping sauces. The combination of these ingredients gave the spring rolls a smoky and spicy flavor, but I didn’t get any distinctive taste from the oxtail. I’d never had it before, so maybe I just couldn’t gather the flavor of it in the midst of the other intoxicating scents and tastes within the spring rolls. Having two options of dipping sauces was a nice touch, and I favored the smooth and creamy avocado crema. 

I would definitely revisit Walter’s to sample some of their other cocktails and extensive bar menu. Their entrees sound delicious as well, but if you can’t go wrong with a couple of small plates and drinks at their classy yet comfortable bar.

Boda

Sitting at the bar with my older sister at Boda and enjoying creative cocktails with Thai tapas, as rain outside mists the streets of Portland, Maine, is an excellent way to begin any evening. Especially when those cocktails involve Thai Basil and ginger, and the cuisine entails oysters, quail eggs, fiddleheads, pork belly, and quail.

I ordered the Thai Basil Tom Collins, which was light with citrus flavors and dancing with just bit of spiciness and anise flavor from the Thai Basil. Sonya sipped on a ginger cocktail, the exact ingredients unknown to me, alas. In any case, I can vouch for the tastiness of the drink. Both of these cocktails made lovely pairings for the Thai food we’d soon be devouring.

First up were oysters served raw with chili-lime dressing and fried shallots. Each oyster not only delivered the quintessential Atlantic Ocean brininess, but also surprised the taste buds with spicy chili and citrusy lime. The fried shallots were a little over the top but still pretty good. If the flavor of the oysters is overpowered by the shallots then you can always take some off, but the crispiness added an interesting texture when juxtaposed with the raw, slippery oysters. The delightful sea flavor of the raw oysters doesn’t really come through until after the initial flavors of the garnishes wanes. It’s an interesting experience with waves of flavor and texture, but in my opinion plain raw oysters are still the way to go if you want to really be at one with the oyster.

We ate the oysters alongside a dish called Kanom-Krok that consisted of quail eggs seasoned with soy sauce and scallions. A little poking around on the Internet reveals that Kanom-Krok is typically a dessert dish of little, round coconut-rice puddings. They look quite appealing, actually, but I have to imagine that Boda is using the term to refer to the cooking process where the individual eggs are cooked in the shallow, round indents of a cast-iron pan. These hot little quail eggs had a very nice saltiness due to the soy sauce, and the rich flavor really exploded when the egg yolk breaks in the mouth. 

We ordered one of the special appetizers—a fiddlehead salad with rice noodles and shrimp. This distinctive salad had an enjoyable spicy element to it, and the seasonal fiddleheads were beautiful to look at in all their spiraled glory and were cooked perfectly. 

We also couldn’t resist the pork belly skewers marinated with salt and sprinkled with chopped scallion. Need I elaborate? No, I think not. I’ll just throw some adjectives at you: Unctuous. Delectable. Savory. Awesome.

For our final dish we shared some quail served with a spicy sauce. There’s something about crunching down on a little bird that is so satisfying. I thoroughly enjoy gnawing the crispy skin and flavorful flesh of quail while snapping teeny, tiny birdie bones. It might sound primitive, but to me it is joy. Bliss. Unfortunately this picture in no way does justice to this dish.

Anyplace that serves tapas or small plates is perfect for sampling lots of dishes, and Boda is no exception. Whether you’re out with a bunch of friends or just catching up with one of your favorite people, Boda is a great restaurant to try out a variety of superb and satisfying Thai cuisine.

Brian Boru

If District has the best burgers in Portland, Maine, then I've got to say that Brian Boru has the best wings. This Irish pub, located at 57 Center Street, is an excellent place to throw back some beers, enjoy live music, and sample their superb wings.

These spicy wings are juicy on the inside, have a crispy exterior coated with garlic sambal sauce, and are served with a side of creamy Gorgonzola dip. I'd been craving super spicy delicious wings, but the ones I'd recently tried in Jersey hadn't curbed my desire. Right before heading to Maine I came across some quality wings in Western New York, but the spiciness just wasn't there. The sambal wings at Brian Boru, however, hit the spot. 

I had to look up what exactly sambal is, and it turns out that it's a Southeast Asian condiment made with a variety of chili peppers. You can pick up a jar of Sambal Oelek if you want to try out this condiment at home.

But I'll warn you, these wings can be pretty fiery. It's a pleasant fire, in my opinion, but if you're not big on spicy food they might not be for you. Although you can always just load them up with the cool and creamy Gorgonzola dip and sip on a Guinness of a Black and Tan if the heat is too much. 

Having a plate of hand-cut, think fries doused in garlic, sea salt, and parsley butter is also an excellent idea.

In addition to serving up these delicious wings, fries, and beers, Brian Boru has live music Thursdays through Sundays, so it's a great place to hang out. And there's never any cover for the music. I was just checking out their website, and apparently they are currently having free BBQ every Thursday from 5-7. I want to go to there. Now.